What I learned in Kathmandu and the Helambou Region!
- Catrin Abrahamsson-Beynon
- Mar 22
- 5 min read
I spent 10 days in the capital of Nepal, Kathmandu, and the Helambu Region, with the Ama Yangri Peak. Below are some tips and some of what I learned!
Kathmandu is situated in a valley, which, according to an old legend, was once a giant lake. It was drained by the bodhisattva Manjushri to make the valley habitable for the people. It's a very lively city that only sleeps for a few hours. During those hours, the dogs take over and can be quite loud. The dogs are very well cared for, and they have a free life! But for a good night's sleep, earplugs and maybe protection against rough air might be good to bring along.
The capital is home to 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites! This is a rare find.
Almost 80% of the population is Hindu, and about 20% are Buddhists. These two worldviews are blended throughout society. I thought it was the other way around with the relation Buddhist and Hindus.
Boudhanath Stupa - the Buddha Temple
We stayed at a great, affordable, very friendly hotel just 6-7 minutes' walk from the Boudhanath Stupa, called Botsugen Hotel. The Buddha temple is one of the largest spherical stupas in the world. It's very beautiful and impressive. Staying so close to it was a great experience!
The stupa, with its famous Buddha Eyes, is an important center for Tibetan Buddhism, especially after many Tibetan refugees settled in Kathmandu in the 1950s.
The iconic “Buddha eyes” painted on all four sides, facing East, West, North, and South, symbolize awareness and compassion.
The structure represents the mandala of the universe, which you see when you look at the construction of the stupa from above, a key concept in Buddhist cosmology.
Pilgrims, monks, and everyone who likes to walk clockwise around the stupa. Going there at sunrise and sunset is most powerful. I did it every day in the city, after my yoga practice.
Walking clockwise around the stupa (or other sacred places) is in Tibetan called ko-ra (pronounced kor-wa). It is a form of meditation and devotion. I found it a very powerful experience.
It's important that you let yourselves become adjusted to the higher elevation. Take help of a professional guide, like Rinji Furba Sherpa!
Helambu Region, just north of Kathmandu
Helambu is very close to Kathmandu, by bus, it took me ca 4,5-5 hours coming back from the mountain to Kathmandu, on very simple dirt track roads. I am grateful I did not have to drive!
In the Helambu region, you find the raw, and quiet Himalayan culture. Many people belong to the Hyolmo (Yolmo) ethnic group that have deep Tibetan Buddhist roots.
The region was heavily affected by the earthquake in 2015 and is still very authentic and less touristic than other areas. Helambu is famous for: apple orchards, Buddhist monasteries, and traditional stone villages.
We stayed at very friendly homestays and small hotels. Be prepared for cold and simple living. You come to realize how spoiled we are in Sweden/the West with hot and cold clean water out of the tap, clean "sit toilets" with toilet paper, and central heating! But the people here are happy and content, and the whole "vibe" in Nepal, in my experience, is softer than in many places in India where the misery is still widespread.
In this region, by the Buddha stupa (especially at sunrise and sunset), you can enjoy traditional Nepali milk tea, a sweetened black tea. In the mountains, it can also include spices, salt, and fat to make it a more nourishing drink. Read more about Nepali teas and many other stories and interesting information, connected to tea, in my upcoming book that will be published in the autumn of 2026!
Ama Yangri Peak - The sacred Mountain
Ama Yangri is one of the highest points near Kathmandu (~3,771 meters) with a panoramic view, and it has a lot of spiritual meaning. “Ama” means mother. It's one of the best short Himalayan viewpoints.
We did the hike up and down in three days. It's important to sleep at a higher elevation to get used to it. And once you are up at the peak, you go down again pretty soon.
It was quite tough, but we had a great sherpa/guide. He led the group with utmost focus on safety and our well-being. Also, what I learned from Rinji Furba Sherpa was to walk VERY slowly, in a rhythmic pace, syncing your breath to your walking, like in walking meditation. This way, you can walk for longer, and you do not need to make as many stops. Stops are, of course, necessary, but after them, it can be hard to restart yourself.
Drink small sips of water (with electrolyte tablets) and have nutritionally packed snacks/bars handy. Use sunscreen and layered clothing. My gear was not "up-to-date," since there was no more room in my suitcase, but it worked! Also, I walked all the way up and down in barefoot shoes, which for me helps my feet to stay happy and healthy, without any blisters!
On a clear day, you can see from Ama Yangri to the Langtang range, the Ganesh Himal, and even see distant Everest region peaks.
There’s a monastery and prayer flags at the summit, and we got the opportunity to put up our own flags, with our own blessings written on them, at the top. This was organized by Magnus Fridh, who s the creator of this journey from Sweden. Contact him if you would like to go to Nepal! He will also soon open a new yoga and meditation studio in Vasastan, Stockholm! Follow him here!
Magnus Fridh to the right in this image. Rinji Furba Sherpa to the left. The prayer flags are blessed before we would all put up our own!
Great combo on this trip!
We got to explore Kathmandu city, spirituality, and the raw wilderness. Would I come back to Nepal? Definitely. From now on, on this journey I am on, I will travel solo to the tea plantations in Ilam/Fikkal (Nepal), Mirik and Kurseong Valley (Darjeeling, India), and Kandy and Nuwara Eliya (in Sri Lanka). It will be a great experience. Come along with me!
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